Backstage at Valentim Quaresma FW23

Of gods and goddesses, and creatures both magical and monstrous

Mythology, with its rich variety of gods and goddesses, heroes and heroines, and creatures both magical and monstrous, has provided a world of inspiration for fashion designers throughout history. These stories are reflected in the clothes we wear, the accessories with which we adorn ourselves and even the colors we choose. Valentim Quaresma put this inspiration front and center in his Fall Winter 2023 'Mythology' collection at ModaLisboa Core.

From ancient times to modern day, fashion has been heavily influenced by myths and legends. Take a close look at Valentim’s Mythology collection, and we see these motifs in the patterns, materials, details and accessories the designer employs. As evident in the silhouettes, Valentim draws further inspiration for the collection from the Victorian era, which was characterized by social change, scientific discovery and industrialization. This led to the Victorians to turn toward mythology, just as we have done throughout history: looking to stories of the past to understand today’s changing world.

A common theme in Valentim’s collection is the use of patchwork, seen throughout in an array of earthy and cool-toned colors on squared midi dresses, cut-out sweatshirts and, more discreetly, in the accessories. The resulting patterns play on the classic imagery of the myth of the Labyrinth built by King Minos of Crete to imprison the Minotaur, a half-man/half-beast monster. Just as there exist many versions of the myth, so too do we see different versions of the motif in Valentim’s collection, such as the mosaic fabric that draws inspiration from Piet Mondrian, a Dutch abstract painter who came of age at the end of the Victorian era and was known for his grid-based paintings. With the "Mondrian-esque" prints and the Victorian references that crop up in A-line skirts, sleeveless tops, an embellished asymmetrical hat and the closing dress of the collection, Valentim adds a more contemporary twist to the mythological theme.

The assortment of deconstructed fabrics was another hallmark of the Mythology collection. Using manual textile manipulation techniques stabilized with a hydro-soluble film traditionally used for embroidery, Valentim created reimagined textures in wool and other fabrics. Here there is an interesting anti-reference to the industrial revolution—a borrowing of the Victorian fashion forms while discarding the machine-made textiles. In the looks, we see the technique applied both in draped, fitted dresses, full tops and in a tangled yarn-ball oversized scarf, wrought with golden wires. The manipulated threads and the balls of yarn bring us back to the myth of the Labyrinth, in which Ariadne, the daughter of King Minos, falls in love with Theseus, a Greek hero who comes to Crete to slay the Minotaur, and gives him a ball of yarn to unwind as he enters the Labyrinth and then use as an escape route in the end. And of course, the nod to the Minotaur would not be complete without oversized golden septum rings accompanying many of the looks.

The god Apollo was often depicted wearing a golden wreath on his head, while the goddess Aphrodite was said to have worn gold jewelry that enhanced her beauty. Borrowing from these mythological tropes, golden jewelry and embellishments played a significant role in the collection. Given his background as a jewelry and accessories designer, Valentim—much like Midas—incorporated gold elements in his craftsmanship to symbolize the power of the divine. Intricate golden headpieces that were both treacherous and stunning and body jewelry reminiscent of armor closed the show to a captivated audience.

ZOOT presents an up-close view of Valentim’s AW23 collection through the lens of photographer Sergio Santos. Taken together, Sergio’s photos offer the narrative arc of the backstage, giving us an intimate portrait of the models in transition—documenting the process from walking in off the street, to walking out down the runway. The story begins by capturing the model’s individuality with their own personal style and story; building up as they begin their transformation through make-up by Antonia Rosa and hairstyling by Helena Vaz Pereira; finally, reaching the climax, with the complete look as the model embodies Valentim’s vision. Sergio encapsulates a deeper intensity, singularly focused on the physical beauty of the scene: filtering out the cacophony and zeroing in on the person becoming the model and inhabiting the clothes.

All images courtesy of Sergio Santos and Zoot Magazine.

Editorial piece originally written for Zoot Magazine, edited by Michaela Doyle.

Photography by Sergio Santos

Beauty by Antonia Rosa and team with Clarins

Hair by Helena Vaz Pereira and team at Griffehairstyle with L´Oréal Professionnel Paris

The spread in full can be read here.